Into the Heart of the Arctic

Svalbard, July 2025 – by photographer Marcel Lesch (Evolumina)

There are trips you take to escape everyday life, and then there are journeys that change you. My expedition to Svalbard belongs to the second category. It was a journey to the edges. Geographically, emotionally, and in the best sense, photographically. Because what I experienced up there, on the edge of the Arctic ice, was so intense and full of magic that even now, I still find myself mentally drifting back again and again.

Arriving at the end of the world – Longyearbyen

The journey begins in Longyearbyen, a small town deep in the Arctic. Barely 2,500 people live here, but flights from Oslo or Tromsø regularly serve the airport. It’s the last outpost of civilization before true wilderness begins. And you can already feel this wilderness with your first step off the plane: barren mountains, harsh winds, a light that seems somehow clearer than anywhere else. It’s like stepping into another world.

Our ship Explorer was already waiting in the harbour, not a big cruise ship, but an expedition vessel for just a very small group of people. It was built for ice, narrow fjords, and closeness to nature. The crew welcomes us with warm smiles, and the guides radiate calm and experience. Immediately, it’s clear: These people live for what they do, and they will guide us safely through the unknown.

After checking in and getting acquainted with our cabins, we have a safety briefing. Then, the ship sets off. The engine hums softly under our feet, water gently laps against the hull, and the cold wind of the north touches our faces. The adventure begins.

Expedition Means: Nothing Is Planned

One thing you learn quickly: An expedition follows no fixed schedule. Weather, ice conditions, and animal sightings decide our daily plans. And that’s precisely what makes it so exciting. The guides gather and analyse maps, check wind and currents, and together with the Captain they weigh the options every morning. And we get to be part of it all. It’s a feeling of freedom and trust in those who call this place home.

Our first destination: the west coast of Svalbard. Massive fjords cut deep into the land, turquoise lagoons open between dark cliffs, and glacier tongues plunge dramatically into the sea. It’s hard to believe you’re still on the same planet. The landscape feels like something out of a dream: raw, silent, and immense. Yet so fragile!

Walruses and Silence – Encounters That Stay With You

One of the first highlights was visiting a walrus colony. These massive creatures lay huddled on the shore, their bodies steaming in the sun while their tusks gleaming in the light. And yet: complete silence. No fence, no barrier. Just us, at a respectful distance, and these ancient-looking animals in their natural habitat. As a photographer, you experience moments here that are unposed, and that makes them all the more precious.

Heading North – Into the Ice

Then came the moment we had all been waiting for: we headed into the pack ice. The landscape changed dramatically as the water thickened, temperatures dropped, and the noise of the world seemed to fade behind us. White, in all its shades, spread out to the horizon.

We ventured as far as 82° North. A number you may have read before, but that only truly means something when you’re there, in the ice. And there we stayed for six days. Why? Because the weather was perfect. There were no storms, no thick clouds, just the endless expanse of ice, and we were in the middle of it. We did encounter some fog when in the ice, a common Arctic weather condition that can occur on any given moment. The visibility dropped drastically, and it was nearly impossible for the guides to spot bears in the distance. Many other operators don’t spend as much time in the ice as we did, meaning you could miss out on this unique environment completely. Luckily, we had plenty of days to wait for the best conditions and encounters!

Watching Polar Bears in the Pack Ice

This was when the genuine expedition began. We stood on deck, equipped with binoculars, cameras, and a considerable amount of patience. Again and again, we scanned the horizon until, a shout, someone pointing, silence: a bear!

In such moment, everything changes. The crew acts calmly, the ship slows, and the course adjusts. We moved very slowly, always watching the bear’s behavior. With Waterproof Expeditions, animal welfare comes first. If a polar bear shows signs of stress or evasive behaviour, we don’t continue. It’s all about respectful coexistence, not getting the perfect shot.

Finding a bear that accepts the presence of the ship is like having your best day. We watched one bear sleeping, roaming, and playing for hours, and he couldn’t care less about our appearance. So many amazing moments he gifted to us are something I will remember for the rest of my life, and that’s exactly the luxury of going to Svalbard on a small ship. We had no schedule, no rush. Instead, we had patience and time to enjoy and experience.

Night Encounters

The ice brings another kind of magic: the silence of Arctic nights. Or rather of the midnight sun, because in July, it never gets dark. The ship’s engine is turned off at night, and the boat is “parked” in the ice. And sometimes, the unbelievable happens: A polar bear chooses to visit the ship.

You’re in bed, sleeping and dreaming about the past few days, then a knock on the door: “There’s a bear!” Adrenaline kicks in. Jump into your warm clothes like a firefighter, grab your camera, and move slowly and very quietly to the deck. And there it is. A polar bear, curious, majestic, confident. It circles the ship, sniffs around, and checks things out. And you stand there, completely overwhelmed. This is true wilderness.

Seals, Birds, and Forgotten Stories

Besides polar bears, the ice is home to many other Arctic inhabitants. Every day brings new encounters, new colours, and new light for photography. Seals often haul out on drifting ice near glaciers, and whales are a common sight in these frigid waters. Zodiac cruises are a great way to get ocean-level views. Being close to the water provides an incredible up-close perspective of the environment.

Svalbard is also a fascinating destination for birders. A whole array of seabirds including kittiwakes, glaucous gulls, puffins, Brünnich’s Guillemots and little auks are drawn to the islands during spring and summer. We visited some of the most dramatic bird cliffs, with thousands of birds nesting on vertical rock faces. The sheer number of birds and the noise they create is an unforgettable experience for visitors.

On our way back south, we stopped at abandoned mining towns. Dilapidated cabins, broken tracks, shattered windows. Rusty relics of when coal was extracted here in Svalbard. It was a melancholic yet profoundly moving backdrop, a reminder of the human history etched into this remote wilderness.

Returning to Longyearbyen, and to Reality

After ten days, we returned to Longyearbyen. The return to civilization felt strange. The sounds of the world suddenly seemed loud and hectic. We said goodbye to the crew, who had become almost like family. We packed our things, but not just our belongings. We brought something back: an inner calm, a new appreciation for nature, wilderness, and our place within it.

It took several days to fully process what we had experienced back home. You look at your photos, sort your memories, and at some point, you realize: this expedition was more than a trip. It was a glimpse into a world that may not exist this way for much longer; an invitation to humility, and a reminder of how vast, beautiful, and worthy of protection our planet truly is.

Ready to experience the magic of Svalbard for yourself?

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Note: Depending on the camera lens used for photography, wildlife may appear closer than it actually is. We always follow local regulations and keep a safe distance to wildlife.